Turtelin: Savory Buckwheat Pancakes
A simple, versatile recipe from Switzerland's Valposchiavo region.
Switzerland’s Valposchiavo Region
An Italian-speaking valley in the Swiss canton of Graubünden, Valposchiavo remains one of my favorite regions of Switzerland. Not only does this region have its own unique specialties, but 95 percent of its farmland has been certified as organic. A shared border with Italy also influences its style of cuisine.
If you want to travel to Valposchiavo, I recommend taking the train! The Rhaetian Railway’s Albula-Bernina line has been designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site. This includes the Bernina Express that will take you to the town of Poschiavo, and if you continue on, across the border into Tirano, Italy.
In terms of culinary specialties, Valposchiavo has a tendency towards rustic, hearty cuisine. This includes dishes such as Capunets, small spinach dumplings, Pizzocherri, buckwheat noodles, and Brasciadèla, a ring-shaped bread made with wheat and rye flour that sometimes contains anise seeds.
Travel Tips for Valposchiavo
Where to eat:
Ristorante Croce Bianca, Via da Mez 97, 7742 Poschiavo, +41 (0)81 844 01 44, relax@croce-bianca.ch. They have a number of local specialties on their “100% Poschiavo” menu.
The restaurant at Alpe San Romerio, Gino Bongulielmi, 7743 Brusio, +41 (0)81 846 54 50, benvenuti@sanromerio.ch. A mountain restaurant, where you have to arrive on foot. They also have overnight accommodations.
Where to sleep:
Hotel Albrici, Via da Mez 18, 7742 Poschiavo, +41 (0)81 844 01 73, welcome@hotelabrici.ch. A member of the Swiss Historic Hotels association. This hotel also has an excellent restaurant.
Coltiviamo Sogni, Via Cantonale 225, 7748 Campascio, +41 (0)79 610 27 77, info@coltiviamo-sogni.ch. A berry farm that also has a bed & breakfast.
Event:
StraMangiada - Typically held in early July, this culinary walk of about 7 km (nearly 4 ½ miles) takes you through scenic villages along a relatively flat route in Valposchiavo. You can stop at food stands along the way to enjoy local specialties.
Sweet & Savory Turtelin
Turtelin come in both sweet and savory versions. In Valposchiavo, this term generally describes a pancake made from a thickened batter, cooked on both sides in a pan. (If you have any other recipes for Turtelin, I would love to see them).
The version of this dish made with apples, Turtelin da pom (apple beignets), is arguably the most well-known today. To make them, you dip thin apple slices into a batter, which are then fried. After that, you coat them in a mixture of cinnamon and sugar. They’re often served with a vanilla sauce. German-speaking Switzerland has a similar, if not identical specialty known as Öpfelchüechli (or Apfelküchlein).
I came across a savory version for Turtelin in an issue of the Almanacco del Grigioni Italiano (Graubünden Italian Almanac) from 2017. Made with buckwheat flour and chives, these little pancakes would be served warm with butter or packed for a snack or lunch away from home. The author describes them as “Un pasto povero con pochi ingredienti,” which essentially means a meal made with a few inexpensive ingredients.
The savory Turtelin resembles another pan-fried quick bread found in Valposchiavo called Chisciöi. Similarly made with buckwheat flour, this savory pancake contains cheese. You’ll also find it in Italy’s Valtellina region, which shares a border with Valposchiavo.
I hope you’ll enjoy my easy recipe for Turtelin this week! Please let me know if you have any questions.
Many thanks, and best wishes,
Heddi
P.S. In Switzerland: If you’re looking for buckwheat flour milled in Valposchiavo, you can order it online from Molino e Pastificio SA.
Recipe: How to Make Turtelin
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